It's so easy a lobotomized pregnant baboon can do it with one arm tied behind her back. OK, well, maybe not a pregnant one. Here are the parts and tools you'll need:

There are several sources out there but I got my parts from JC Whitney's on-line catalog (BTW, these bushings DO fit my 2000 S):

1- Bushings For 1" Diam. Sway Bars (front)
Sku #: 88ZX7546P with small A type brackets
Unit Price: $9.95 + shiping 

2- Bushings For 3/4" Diam. Sway Bars (rear)
Sku #: 88ZX7540T with small A type brackets
Unit Price: $9.95 + shipping

3- Eight 1/4" fairly thick washers. Do NOT use the stock metal brackets. They won't fit, use the new ones in the kit. Since they are universal in size, the washers will give you a better seat for the lockwashers and nuts/bolts.

Tools:

1- 3/8" ratchet
2- 12mm socket
3- 6" extension to use on the rear bushings, they are up there!
4- Flat tip screw driver, to pry the busings from the bolts in the front.
5- A rag, that darn grease is a pain to get off your hands.

FRONT BUSHINGS

1- Get under the truck and locate the front sway bar bushings. From under the front you get the best angle unless you are a practicing contortionist. The only thing attaching them to the sway bar are two nuts. Remove them using the 12mm socket/ratchet.

2- Once the nuts are off, CAREFULLY pry the metal bracket from the two bolts taking care not to foul the stock rubber bushings. Once the bracket is off (it simply slides off the bushing) slip the bushing off the sway bar by spreading it just enought to get it off the bar. Take note which way the split on the bushing is facing. Save ALL your hardware.

3- Open the grease tube that came with the kit and generously lube the inside of the new poly bushing and lightly coat the outside. Now's the time to use that rag. Clean your hands then use the rag to clean the part of the bar that will come in contact with the bushing. Now slip the bushing onto the sway bar (with the split facing the way the old bushing's did) onto the same spot the old bushing sat on.

4- Slide the new bracket over the bushing and slip the new washers and the stock lockwashers over the bolts and thread the nuts a couple of turns onto each bolt.

5-Center the bracket on the bolts and tighten the nuts down alternating about every 5 turns, this prevents you from pinching the bushing and promotes better, more evenly distributed seating. Don't overtighten the nuts or you'll find yourself in a heap of trouble if you break the bolts. Repeat on the other side and you're done. If you are slow it should take you 15 minutes per bushing.

REAR BUSHINGS

1- Get at them from the rear, you have to slide your body past the axle to get to these guys. They can be found way up there right next to the top of your Rancho 9000s or OME shocks. These guys are held on by bolts instead of nuts. Use the 6" extension on your ratchet to get to them. Once you undo the bolts follow the same prep and replacement procedure as with the front bushings. There is no need to use the screw driver here. These should take the baboon about ten minutes per to change. Remember to keep the old bushings and brackets in a safe place, you never know. Now go out and enjoy less lean! 

Islander